A dream come true

OK, for once a post that is not about Romania, the Peace Corps or my faultering state of mind and indecision. I woke up Monday morning to some of the best news I have heard in a while. The CHICAGO BEARS ARE HEADED TO THE SUPERBOWL!!! Yes it is true, after 21 long years of excile my team is headed back to the promised land! In preparation for the big game I wanted to share one of the greatest video's of all time!


Super Bowl Shuffle - video powered by Metacafe

Bears fan or not, you have to love that just for throwback to 80's style!

I hope you are doing well, and I would love to hear from ya when you get a chance. Drop me a line anytime.

-john

The Great European Adventure – Part 2

The final part of our trip seemed to go at break neck speed; two nights in Prague, two nights in Krakow and finally three nights in Vienna where we spent New Years. I enjoyed the whole thing immensely, but here is travel tip. If you want to see a lot of cities but don’t have a lot of time, don’t cheat yourself. Plan to spend at least 3 nights in each city this will give you a good opportunity to see at least a majority of what a city has to offer.

Prague - December 26^th (Evening) – 28^th

We arrived in Prague after a long 9 hour train ride, which in my world, was not that bad. I have actually come to enjoy traveling by train, while it takes more time; you have the opportunity to see more of the landscape, to walk around and stretch your legs, and in many cases meet new people. Having traveled together now for about a week Kate and I were determined to reach out and meet some fellow travelers and include them in our adventures.

Upon arriving in Prague we made our way to the hostel which this time was much easier to find given our directions. After getting settled in the room, we wandered down to the bar and started meeting some of the fellow guests. Before we knew it we had joined a group of other travelers consisting of Aussies, Kiwi’s and other Americans. What is a group of international travelers to do for fun you ask? Karaoke of course! So we headed out to karaoke bar across town, which we came to find out was a gay karaoke bar. Despite the lack of songs in English we had a great time, and got everyone singing along. For those of you not there, you missed a banner rendition of Frank Sinatra’s “My Way” sung by yours truly. From there we decided to head back towards the hostel and hit another bar. After an hour of walking around the city, getting lost and finally cutting a deal with a cabbie we arrived at our destination; a place called the Cross Club. I have never seen anything like the Cross Club and may never again. Outside the place looked like a normal brick building, inside it was mechanical wonderland. Everywhere you looked was piping and scaffolding; it all had a very industrial look, completely original.

The next day we made our way to a park near the castle with a bluff that overlooked old town. Prague was the first real old European city I had seen and I am not exaggerating when I say that it stopped me in my tracks. From the river and the bridges crossing it, to the chapel spires and the castle in the foreground I was simply amazed at the imagination, ingenuity and resourcefulness of man and the works that were created so many years ago. Some of the buildings were soaring and beautifully decorated monuments to God, while others served to celebrate royalty and man’s accomplishments. Whatever their intent the end result was the same; they made you feel small and filled you with awe at the same time. In the midst of this beauty my mind turned toward heaven. If Prague is an example of the beauty that man can craft, how much greater will heaven be? The city, the throne room, the chapel?

As I wandered down the streets of the old protected town and thought back to a time when the most valuable land was not the wide open spaces of the country, but rather within the walls of protection that surrounded the castle, high on a bluff bordered by a river. The guards still marched through the city, and the changing of the guard was done with pomp and circumstance and if only for a moment you were able to catch a glimpse of what life used to be like.

From the castle grounds we made our way down the hill and across the river into old town and city square. Everywhere I looked I was amazed by the architecture and knowledge that I was walking down streets that held humanity long before the US was even thought of. In the main square was a clock unlike anything I had ever seen. Although ancient in design (constructed in 1410) it has accurately tracked the orbits of the sun, moon and stars for centuries. Each hour a little mechanical show takes place as a skeleton rings a bell as the saints and Christ come out and bless the city. Unfortunately by this time in the day my camera had given out, it was not until the next day that I was able to capture the images of this part of the city.

All in all Prague was a bit like Disneyworld, amazing but a bit touristy; at least in the places I went. It was absolutely the most beautiful city I visited on this trip, and I will return one day when I have more time and a less hectic schedule. One of my favorite memories from my time in the city was walking along the river from the “Dancing House” to Charles' bridge. It was a very cold day, and the frost had formed on the trees across the river, steam was rising from the water and you could see your breath. As the air stung my face and as I took in the amazing architecture all around me I was reminded that this is what I had come to see; the history, the culture and the beauty.

To see pictures of Prague click here.

Poland - December 28^th (Evening) – 30^th

After another day long train we arrived in Krakow a little before 10pm. It was a long day on the train and by the time we finally got to town all we wanted to do was eat and go to bed. After checking into the hostel we ran into a fellow traveler from Prague and went out for some great food, and “interesting” Polish beer. Poland has a lot of things; good local beer is not one of them however.

The next morning we woke up and made our way to Oświęcim, a town about 1 ½ hours by train outside Krakow. To the world however it is known by its German name, Auschwitz. This was one part of the trip that I wanted to do, but not one I was necessarily looking forward to. Once I set foot on those grounds all the movies, stories and the history seemed to fade away, and I was left with the sure horror and scale of all that happened there. As a memorial to those that lost their lives in this hell on earth, the governments of Poland and Germany have kept the camp in much the same state as when the Red Army first liberated it. The dorms have now been turned into museums dedicated to a number of different people groups who lost their lives in this place. For so long Auschwitz has been synonymous with holocaust in my mind and the attempted extermination of the Jewish race in Europe. At some level I knew that the atrocities went further than that, but seeing the exhibit on “The Extermination of the European Roma” really hit home with me after spending the last 8 months in Romania. The extent of Hitler’s true aim of promoting the Aryan race came to reality.

The most striking part of the entire grounds however were the buildings dedicated to “Evidence of the crime” and Block 11 “The death block”. Once again the sheer volume and extent of the death in this place was overwhelming. Contrasting this place with where I was just days ago showed the great divide in the beauty and the horror that we as humans are capable of. From rooms filled with shoes, suitcases, personal effects and even human hair that was used to make rolls of fabric the depravity that occurred here overwhelmed the senses. The Death Block in some ways was even more overwhelming. In the basement for example there were some small rooms, with only a small door in the floor for access. As a punishment prisoners were placed in these 1.5 meter square “rooms” with three other people for the night and then required to work the next day. Sleep if it came at all was done standing up.

After walking around the grounds for a few hours I started to block out all that I was seeing. Just thinking about how cruel and callous these people were treated is amazing, and I found that my mind could only take so much. So after taking a few pictures in an effort to capture the essence of the camp, we made our way back to train station and Krakow.

The thing I regret most about the entire trip was not having a day to spend in Krakow. For a small town, it was amazing. There was so much to see, and I only really got to see it at night, hence no real pictures. I will say this though, if you make it to Poland Krakow is worth the trip, both for Auschwitz and the town itself.

To see pictures of Poland click here.

Vienna - December 30^th – January 3^rd

Ahhh Vienna…quite possibly the most fun stop of the trip, mostly likely due to the fact we here over New Years. After arriving at the hostel in the early afternoon, we found a bite to eat and then explored some of the local shopping, finding a multi-story sporting goods store with everything from golf to climbing gear to horseback riding equipment. I even got to swing a club for the first time in months hitting a ball into a digital screen and I am sorry to say that is showed. I had one good shot and a bunch of worm burners. Oh well...I will get it back sometime in the next couple of years I am sure of it.

The next morning (New Years eve) we spent our time walking around the city and exploring the landmarks. Most stores were closed for the holiday so it was a great time to save some money and see all of the architecture that Vienna has to offer. From walking through an archway and out onto the Hofburg square, to standing in front of the Votivkirche, the structures are beautiful as they are grand in size. I once again felt small and awe struck at the magnitude of what was accomplished with what we would consider today rudimentary tools.

New Year’s Eve evening was an absolute blast! Vienna knows how to throw a party! We decided to make our way down towards the center of the city and walk along the New Year’s path, which wound its way from St. Stephen’s Church to the Votivkirche (City Hall). It was a path lined with stands selling everything from souvenirs to food and champagne to celebrate. Being smart, and cheap we brought out drinks with us in advance. We moved along the narrow streets with a crowd of thousands lit by large chandeliers hung high above. As we neared the Votivkirche and squeezed toward the front we prepared for the strike of midnight. With singing and dancing all around us it was the first time I had celebrated the holiday in this way. Normally I am with friends at a small party, this by contrast was completely different and a lot of fun. I rang in the New Year with a brother and sister from France, a brother and sister from Australia, and a Russian; it was as diverse as it was enjoyable! At the stroke of midnight we all danced the Blue Danube Waltz (well some danced, others like me shuffled out feet). The party went on well into the morning but after a couple more hours we had enough and started making our way back home.

The next day our little group hit the streets again, exploring the city, castle and museums. The highlight of the day however was attending the Vienna Opera. While tickets to the Opera start at 70€, standing room only spaces are sold for a mere 3.50€. To be at the Opera house and witness the talent of the performers was a true experience. The Opera in and of itself was also quite entertaining, and very funny.

Vienna was also the city we stayed in the longest, allowing us to see more of it than anywhere else. It also allowed for a much more leisurely pace in our explorations. With no schedule and nowhere to be we simply drifted from sight to sight. In the following days I visited more museums, the fair grounds and a special area of town where art and architecture met in a city block called Hundertwasser Village.

To see pictures of Vienna click here.

My mother always said that the sign of a good vacation was that when it was over you were ready to go home. Using that measuring stick this was a great trip, one that I remember for years to come. It was filled with great moments, and sights that filled me wonder. All in all it was nice to get just a little taste of home in certain ways, and take a break from my daily routine.

To see other pictures click here.

The Great European Vacation - Part 1

I returned from one of the best vacations of my life late last week. In taking it I had the chance to fulfill a dream of mine, to see Europe. Truth be told I have a little confession to make. When I found out that I would be serving in Romania not all of my thoughts were altruistic. I would be finally traveling to Europe, and I knew that sooner or later I would have the chance to see parts of this continent I had always dreamed of. From December 21^st to January 3^rd I got to do just that. My travel partner was Kate Neidhamer a friend from Peace Corps who has really become like a second little sister to me.

December 21^st (12:00 am)

Yep that is right, I was going to maximize this trip! I left Oradea on a Maxi-Taxi (think 15 passenger van) and with my friend Kate already on board we got ready for a short 5 hour drive to Budapest. 2 hours of which were spent at the boarder. Just a little travel tip for all you would be adventurers, maxi-taxi’s are not the most comfortable places to sleep. Try the marble floor at the airport, it is much better; I did. After a quick three hour nap upon arriving at the airport using my backpack as a pillow, I was ready for more travel.

We arrived in Berlin about 5pm that evening and after a searching for our hostel for about 20 minutes and walking past our street multiple times we finally dumped our stuff on the bunks and headed out to eat. Just blocks away was a little Chinese takeout, never mind that it was staffed by Turks, it was great food! One of things I miss most about the US is the abundance and ease of getting different types of food. The food in Romania is good, but it starts to taste the same after a while. Therefore I was determined to get a wide range of tastes this trip.

With the night still young we headed over to West Berlin to an area known as the Sony Center; a modern mix of glass and steel in what is a very old area of the city. I think they did a good job of blending the two contrasting styles, and the area was bustling with Christmas cheer and celebration. I also got to try a German holiday drink called gluvine (sp). Gluvine is hot mulled wine and tastes a little like cider with a sour aftertaste. I am willing to try anything once, and this was one drink that I only had one helping of. Kate also pointed out a line of brick that cut straight through the center where the tram line was. I found out that this represented the Berlin wall. As a moment to the past this line wanders through the city where ever the wall used to be. As a symbol to the present, it also disappears straight into new buildings in some places showing that the tragedies of the past can be built upon for a new future.

December 22^nd

After waking up and admitting to liking George Bush which got me into a lengthy political debate on the outcome of the 2000 Presidential election with my fellow conversationalist pointing out that “George Bush lost because Fox News apologized”. Needless to say it was an interesting start to the day.

With my debate for the day out of the way it was off to see the sites. While I had seen some of the sites the day before this was my first chance to get out and really see what Berlin had to offer. We started by making our way to Parliament building, an impressive reconstruction of a bombed out shell left over from World War II. During the reconstruction the workers wrapped the building so it could all be unveiled at once. From Reichstag it was on to the Brandenburg Gate and the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. Both were amazing to see. The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe however was an interactive experience and one that hit home with me. As you stood at the edge of the memorial it looked as if all the blocks were about the same size, but when you walked into it you found that the blocks actually rose far above your head. The whole thing was set up to show that what started as a small thing, grew and grew until the issue seemed so overwhelming finding your way out of it seemed even harder. If you are ever in Berlin be sure to take the time to visit this work of interactive art.

After wondering around the city a little bit we stopped in a café / bar / sushi restaurant run by Russians. It was just the second day of the trip and already the multiculturalism was starting to hit me. When we were saying goodbye we found that the bartender also knew Romanian. This resulted in an interesting conversation in Romanian, English, Russian and German. Talk about making your brain swim!

From the café it was on to the longest standing section of the Berlin wall and Checkpoint Charlie. It was a little strange to see these once solemn, and dangerous symbols turned into tourist attractions complete with actors posing as US soldiers from the cold war era.

The night was capped off by visiting a couple bars near our hostel. From a bar with album covers posted on the wall with 90’s music videos playing and large jack & cokes to a hookah bar it was a fun evening that reminded me a lot of home.

To see pictures of Berlin click here.

December 23 ^rd – 26^th

We caught a train in the morning that took us to Zerbst and Kate’s host family in East Germany. I have never spent a Christmas away from home, and to be honest I was not sure what to expect or how I feel about not being with my family for what to me is a very meaningful holiday. Christmas is a time to be with the ones we love, remembering the blessings of the year, celebration and remembrance of the gift we all received so long ago. For me it is a time of laughter, and good food, conversation and being together. I am happy to say that my time with the Spuhn’s was wonderful. They very quickly became like family, with all the joking and laughter I am so used to. It was also the BEST food of the trip, or so I like to believe. My body chose this most inopportune time to fall sick. I was so stopped up in the nose that I could barely taste the food. For those of you in Romania reading this, put it this way I was unable to smell Palinka, even with the bottle right under my nose.

The only thing that was missing from this stay was a white Christmas. It is so warm there, unseasonably so that I am beginning to think there may be something to this global warming thing…. Christmas day we had a little celebration and gift exchange, lit the candles in the room and on the tree and had a wonderful dinner of goose. For the first time in my life I had a true Christmas goose, raised on their farm along with the pig we were eating all weekend long. Before I knew it though it was time to go, and Kate and I were on to the next part of our trip…PRAUGE!

Stay tuned for the second part of the trip (it is taking me longer to get everything together than I thought)

To see pictures from Zerbst click here.